9/28/2014

FRANCE, visiting Paris and the French countryside in May



A direct flight from Boston to Paris..... 
                                                                                                        and then.....















We've heard about it all our lives...read about this city and its people in novels (both modern and the classics), listened to the accolades about their food, wine, cheese, chocolate, croissants and desserts. And, yes, we recognize so many of its iconic places from countless movies and as the backdrop for ads in glossy magazines.

It's probably the most visited,
 (or wished for) destination in the world. 


Well,  "Paree" definitely lived up to all the hype.

We walked along the banks of the Seine, entered magnificent buildings to stand before world renown masterpieces, were awestruck by amazing and enduring architecture,
 then sat sipping coffee at a sidewalk bistro.
We were charmed by the people,
 entertained by talented street musicians
 and made breathless by the boundless beauty and culture surrounding us.
Each neighborhood (arrondissement) has its own special ambiance.   We have wonderful memories of our time spent exploring the Latin Quarter, Montmartre, the Marais, and Champs-Elysees.


****************************************************** 

(pics by Jud/Trish)
The Louvre is the world's largest and most diverse museum.

  We visited later in the day when the crowds thin and more time can be spent getting up close and personal with Michelangelo's Mona Lisa and the "original" Venus de Milo.
  It also allowed for a slower pace among its other treasures.
smaller than I thought, but looking right through you no matter where you stand
classic


The glass pyramids (designed by I. M. Pei) at the entrance are quite impressive and a beautiful addition to this massive institution that takes up 5 city blocks.








*******************************************************************************


   Cathedral de Notre Dame (our Lady) de Paris
sits at the heart of the original city.
(see why it's called the Ile de la Cite as it's an island)
 Started in the 12th century, all distance from Paris is still measured from Point Zero des Routes de France, the bronze marker on the ground across from its entrance.


Said to be one of the best examples of French Gothic architecture (frightening gargoyles, flying buttresses, bell towers,
 and beautiful rose windows), it was the setting for
 Victor Hugo's Hunchback of Notre Dame
 (written in 1831 but set in 1492 Paris).

the detail work of Medieval masons and sculptors is amazing







 The massive rose windows still contain mostly
 the original glass...incredible.
As I walked through, I couldn't help but think that my Parisian ancestors of the 1600's gazed up at this same beautiful site.



St Denis was bishop of Paris when martyred in the 3rd century.  He is said to have picked up his head after being decapitated, then walked 6 miles preaching a sermon the entire way.


******************************************************************************



Our boat ride on the Seine was a relaxing, romantic experience. French songs filled the air, a warm breeze drifted off the water, and the blue sky made the perfect backdrop as we looked up at the many stunning sights along the way.











Built 1568-1607, Pont Neuf,  (ironically NEW BRIDGE)
 is actually the oldest bridge in Paris.

Paris has 37 bridges crossing the Seine...
  I think we walked or drove across half of them. (just kidding)

Ponte de L'Archeveche
 is where couples have placed thousands of "locks" to promise their love


This is a much smaller Statue of Liberty.  It faces west toward her big sister in New York City

******************************************************

 near our l'hotel...we found Le Sully cafe


We opted not to attend the Vaudeville-like show at Moulin Rouge,
but snapped a pic of the entrance. 
 Very crowded, with lots of neon in this part of the city at night.


I was thrilled to see the outside of the Opera Garnier, known as the magnificent setting of Phantom of the Opera.
  We did not have time to tour the inside..
.but it'll be on our must-do list next time we visit Paris.





*******************************************************************************



seeing Paris from the Eiffel Tower...perfect




La Tour Eiffel

Designed by Gustav Eiffel, it was never meant to be permanent.  The city was supposed to dismantle it at the end of the 1889 World Fair (commemorating the 100th anniversary of the French Revolution). Visited by millions yearly, it continues to be the romantic symbol of Paris.  I guess Parisians are use to it but every time I saw it was a special moment whether it was close-up or from a distance.
such amazing intricate architecture


unsurpassed views of Paris, even with a low cloud cover 




These ducks made their way among the tourists proving wildlife enjoy visiting too!
an enchanting sight to behold from anywhere in the city...
had me awestruck and speechless,
 thinking "I'm really walking in Paris!"


******************************************************

Arc de Triomphe, built in 1836 to honor Napoleon's 1805 victory at Austerlitz sits in the middle of Etoile (star) Roundabout.

**************************************************************************




 We enjoyed the meals, bread, wine, croissants, coffee, chocolate, desserts etc,etc, at different cafes throughout the city.

It was always relaxing to eat outside, both along bustling main streets and in the quieter pedestrian ways.
  Never rushed, we enjoyed planning out our time, chatting, and people-watching.
























One evening we went for dinner in the Montmartre area (translated as "mount of the martyr"..referring to St Denis).   With the renowned white domed Basilica de Sacre Couer above us (it sits on the hightest point of Paris) we made our way up the seemingly endless stairs. (These stairs are themselves a famous fixture of the city, seen in so many photos and paintings.)  It was quite the trek up, (and down) made more difficult because I was wearing heels that night...what was I thinking? 






Later as we began our descent we were treated to the site of the Eiffel Tower twinkling madly.  Originally done to celebrate the new millennium, it continues nightly on the hour for 5 minutes and is truly a magical display.   Paris is truly the "city of lights" and the collective gasp of people heard across the city as thousands of lights burst to life is unforgettable.  Jud caught it on video...

**************************************************


A place few tourists know about...

One morning we walked along the Promenade Plantee (tree-lined walkway), also called Coulee Verde, (green course), a wonderful elevated parkway built along the old railway that crossed the city. We joined Parisian mothers with carriages, joggers, and lines of schoolchildren (a la Madeline) above the city streets.  It is a quiet, uncrowded pathway planted with trees, vines, and flowering bushes, a true escape from the noise and fast pace of the city below.   There were benches to sit on, watering stations, stairways down to small parks, and an area, Viaduc des Arts, of shops featuring highly skilled artisans and craftsman.
  A pedestrian only area, it gave a different view of this bustling metropolis.
walking above the Parisian neighborhoods
the occasional opening in the gardens allowed birds-eye views


some interesting architectural sites can be seen from this elevation
 We descended back to street level, turned a corner and found a  wonderful open air street market offering samples of sausage, cheeses, and fruit.  We purchased a bag of fresh colorful macarons, those exquisite french meringue sandwich cookies with ganache or fruit middles.   The traditional almond are good but the chocolate and pistachio were melt in your mouth "delicieux".   
*******************************************************************************

 walking along the banks of the Seine,
 here on the opposite bank of the Louvre






Below is the square where the infamous Bastille prison once stood.  Parisians "stormed the Bastille" on July 14, 1789 and it was subsequently totally destroyed during the Revolution.  It its place stands the Colonne de Juillet (column of July).

lots of benches in little parks along the way


It was sad, however, to see the exact place of the accident that caused Lady Diana's death.


*******************************************************************************


Versailles

We spent a day at the Palace of Versailles, located 13 miles outside of Paris.  Originally a hunting lodge, it served as the seat of government and court for three French Kings ending with the French Revolution.  It definitely is a showcase for the opulence and grandeur of the 18th century French Monarchy.  It has 700 rooms, 67 staircases, 2,153 windows, 27 acres of roofing, and 55 fountains.
nice front entrance,eh

Hall of Mirrors, one of the most famous "rooms" in the world


 they liked their "gild"...room after room after room..

hanging out enjoying the sunshine on a small terrace




"just a little garden out back"..almost 2000 acres dotted with plantings, sculptures, fountains, and ponds.
(it would be so easy to get lost in the mazes)


****************************************************** 


Giverny...
Visiting Monet's House and Gardens made for a quiet, restful, sojourn. 

 We listened to songbirds and ambled down walkways of colorful blooms.  Circling the water garden and standing on the famous Japanese bridge (below) made it a surreal experience.

  
Bridge Over a Pond of Water Lilies
 Monet 1899





Inside we got a close up look at some of his works in the setting where he sketched and painted.























So much inspiration to be creative with canvas and paint



 *******************************************************************************



St Malo is a walled city on the coast of Brittany.  Once a haven for corsairs and pirates it is now a tourist destination.  Jacques Cartier lived and sailed from here (to the St Lawrence River area of Quebec City and Montreal) in the 16th century.





thick walls for centuries of fortification


****************************************************************




Bayeux is located about 4 miles from the English Channel coast.



Viewing the Bayeux Tapestry was a surprising unplanned highlight for me (I love medieval history and have read about it many times).   It is an extraordinary embroidered cloth (wool yarn on linen) that has miraculously survived over nine centuries. Legend states it was made by William the Conqueror's wife to commemorate events in the Norman Conquest of England in 1066. It is an amazing 224 feet long.
 the detail work is phenomenal, it would take days to fully examine the intricate crewel work of these medieval women



We also visited the Cathedrale Notre-Dame de Bayeux,
 consecrated in 1077
 in the presence of William, Duke of Normandy and King of England.
(aka William the Conqueror)



inside looking out and up you can appreciate its majestic presence

part of an outer wall showing the wear of centuries


 

a stunning rainbow crossed the sky of the French countryside
 as we drove toward the coast



My genealogy research has led me back
 to the small villages of Normandy.
(Are any cousins living nearby, I wonder, as we drive through)


offerings of the sea on the Normandy coast



*****************************************************************************


looks straight out of a fairy tale 
Mont St-Michel
 We took so many pics of this famous landmark but none compare to this one by Rudy Denoyette I found on the internet


Only 44 people live here but over 3 million people visit each year.   On the top is the abbey, below are the great halls, then stores and housing for fisherman and farmers.  It is accessible at low tide by land, otherwise surrounded by the sea and this made it a natural strategic fortification starting in the 8th century.

It does looks the part of fairy tales from a distance
 and walking within its walls to the monastery at the top
 was an awesome experience.
here's our pic as we near the coast, minus the sheep

It was a challenging climb up narrow medieval alleys, over uneven ground with dangerous sheer drops, and on steep stone staircases.  
Not all make it to the top


nature has grown in and around this fortress, they have become as one

an expansive view out over the mud flats toward the horizon during low tide
 
some exquisite details can be appreciated along the way

 so much history...
 of battles and sieges, of religion and cloistered prayer
the echos of chanting monks can almost be heard



Witness how they pulled up supplies.  Prisoners would walk within the treadwheel crane to turn it

expecting to see armored knights make an entrance


here you see the causeway they are building
 to connect the island to the mainland
(once the tide comes in you are held hostage by the sea)
   
finally, reaching the top...
perhaps a little closer to heaven

Saint Michael (archangel)

  
Gazing out you can appreciate how the surrounding quicksand and disorientating fog
 made it such a successful fortification through the centuries.



Wonderful views to behold of sea, sky, and land from atop this rocky tidal island on the border of Normandy and Brittany

*******************************************************



CAEN
Caen, 2 hours northwest of Paris, made a good home during our visit to the Normandy beaches and D Day Memorials.  Some of its buildings date to the reign of William the Conqueror who is buried here.  It is also an area of heavy fighting and destruction during the Battle of Normandy in 1944.




William the Conqueror ordered the construction of the Abbey of Saint-Etienne in the 11th century.  It is a former Benedictine monastery dedicated to St Stephen.


 a small Wedding was being conducted in the garden while we walked through





The ruins of Saint-Etienne le Vieux (Old St Stephens), built before 1066, still stand in Caen





*******************************************************

NORMANDY

     A very moving visit, especially at Omaha Beach where so many Americans lost their lives.

June 6, 2014 marked the 70th anniversary of the Allied invasion from across the English Channel to free France and the rest of Europe from Hitler's stronghold during World War II. Over 215,000 Allied soldiers (and as many Germans) lost their life or were wounded during D Day and the following 3 months.

I walked the American cemetery on Mother's Day.  It was heart wrenching to think of the 7 thousand plus mothers who would never see their young sons again after that infamous day.  The average age of the fallen American soldier buried here is only 22 years.
over 9,000 American graves



 The area where the allied forces landed has been mostly left untouched.... you can see the German Bunkers, holes where mortar fire landed, and the steep cliffs of Pointe de Hoc which US rangers scaled during the attack.  Remnants of the man made harbor are still present on the beach at Arromanches.













Our time here was more of a pilgrimage.  It was an evocative reminder of what the world might be like were it not for the bravery and sacrifice of so many. To visit here and remember was to honor a generation who gave so much.









******************************************************************************


Our time in France was incredibly spectacular.
  We crossed more than one thousand years of history, saw beautiful natural landscape, walked through lavish chateaux and palaces, viewed incredible art and sculpture by the masters, and enjoyed the wonderful food, wine, and ambiance that is unique to this incredible region.
It was hard to say au revoir 

and yes...the french macarons really are to die for
so many wonderful memories




This famous French royal pearl and diamond tiara (1853) is currently held by the Louvre



No comments:

Post a Comment