PORTUGAL

photos by Jud & Trish 10/2011

A wonderful destination...
Lisbon and it's surrounding countryside offer warm hospitality, a rich cultural history, lively entertainment, delectable food, and full-bodied wines.  Oh, and the weather while we were there in October of 2011 was 75-80 with not one drop of rain to be seen!

You walk through and it's as if you're transformed, magically enveloped into a master's painting. The tile, the stonework, the colorful roofs, homes with flowers and greenery, always places to stop, rest, sit....a center plaza to gather and share good food, talk, and laughter all add to the old world charm.
The food (codfish, pork, beef, chicken, duck, and rabbit were available on most menus) was always appetizing with generous portions.  The wines were exquisite and inexpensive.
We were fortunate to have our own personal guide around the city for one day as I have an expat cousin who now makes his home in this beautiful capital city. 



Looking down over Lisbon and beyond to the Tagus River. Much of the city was destroyed during the earthquake and subsequent tsunami of 1755 (estimated today to be an 8.5-9.0). Not only did 85% of the city's population lose their lives but the river's path changed so that some buildings such as the Tower of Belem (seen below) now sits in its waters.  This tower is where Portugal's king would meet Magellan and other explorers that visited Lisbon.

Pasteis de Belém (visit their site)is a definite must if you're visiting Lisbon! The 1837 original factory/cafe is still in Belem. The Antiga Confeitaria de Belem can be found next to Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, in Rua de Belem nº 84-88.  A line forms each day  as locals and tourists wait patiently for their turn to be served one of these warm-from-the-oven delicious egg-custard tarts with an incredibly flaky crust and carmelized top.  The line does move quickly as this is all they serve, you only have to decide whether to have wine or espresso with them.  The original recipe is still kept secret and none that we've tried stateside (or even at other establishments in Lisbon) have come close to  tasting as wonderful.

This capital city has many wonderfully tiled, shaded walkways with ample benches for rest and people-watching. Beware, though, they are potentially disastrous with heels, especially in the dark or rain. It helps to have the arm of a strong man to hold onto.

  
We came upon this scene while walking in the Alfama district of the city, listening to the echos of soulful fado music, and enjoying the quaint, almost medieval ambiance. We walked these maze-like alleys where every turn was a true "photo-op". This was a Thursday night close to midnight and still people are gathering.


  

Every restaurant and cafe offers alfresco dining. Some have as many as 20 tables while others have but one or two. Always there is someone to greet you, and no one to rush you out.   Take an hour, enjoy an  espresso and conversation with friends, or sip quietly alone with a good book.







Opposite our hotel.... with splashes of color in every direction. Obvious pride and care show in the clean streets and lack of litter.  The shopping is exquisite, with all the European designers represented along the main Avenida da Liberdade (Avenue of Liberty).
 
Sintra is one of Portugal's oldest and most celebrated cities.  Here, you'll find  castles, museums, palaces and buildings that date to the 11th century.  With it's winding stone alleys set into the hills most of the center remains as it was centuries ago.  This is the view from a distant royalty's "summer" palace. I don't know who counted, but there are reportedly a total of 300 stairs within. The massive kitchen/scullery area was most interesting, with the high walls sloping up and in to an open "chimney-like" ceiling designed to draw up the smoke from the required large cooking fires.



  A night view from the highest point of Lisboa, near the Castle of Sao Jorge, a Moorish castle built near the center of Lisbon. Here, we were among a throng of locals at an outdoor cafe.
   





 

The Temple at Evora, also called the Temple of Diana (Roman) dates back to the 1st-3rd Century. It probably was a place of buying and selling but the amazing thing is....it's still standing.






 
We had fun exploring the walled city of Obidos with its 13th century castle at the top of the hill.  (This small village was once a wedding present from a king to his new bride.)   The quietness transports you back in time. All you hear are your footsteps and nature as thoughts drift to what life was like in a distant century.








I still marvel that medieval women could walk and climb with heavy skirts and thin soled shoes through these rocky lanes and carved out stairs. We visited on a windy day and the higher we got the more gusty and forceful the winds. Jud braved the steep stone stairs to the higher walls (no railings on either side) while I opted to turn back a third of the way up.  They use the area for several annual events (like the chocolate festival that was upcoming).


Tile is everywhere in Portugal and done with flair and style. This perfectly level pedestrian walkway by shops and cafes has the illusion of waves. It can make you dizzy if you continue to look down as you walk! We leisurely (no drive-thru here) enjoyed espresso and a beer overlooking a Newport-like ocean view from a cafe at the top. (At beautiful renown Cascais on the "other" side of the Atlantic.)



Majestic waves crashed in on miles of beaches and the sky to the west was the bluest ever. We enjoyed some incredible meals, courtesy of the local fishermen and their wives, especially in Nazare where tradition includes the wearing of seven skirts by those drying the fish in baskets at the edge of the ocean.
 

Do you think this is a one way street?  Notice the ever present small tiles on the walkways. (all hand placed and hammered into sand, we actually saw a crew of men repairing a section in Lisboa)  Also, note  the chairs outside on the left sidewalk.  Morning coffee here must be very interesting.  This was taken as we "briefly" lost our way while walking one afternoon.


    We visited the family-owned winery of José Maria da Fonseca in the town of Arrabida early one morning and witnessed the villagers starting their day.  The vineyard was quiet except for the sound of chirping birds looking to sample the ripening grapes. An english speaking family member took us on an amazing tour of their 150 year old wine cellars (some of their oldest casks are kept in a dungeon-like area behind a locked iron gate).  We then sampled their renown muscatel and port which are respected and renown throughout the global wine community.  No wonder they historically offer a great product...it was a warm, sun drenched day, even in October.  Yes, the sky really was this blue!
 


Intricate stone carvings added to the architectural marvels of the Cathedrals, Monasteries, and Universities we visited.  The masonry facades in Europe continue to amaze me.  Actually, most of the interiors were rather plain although expansive...mostly due to the marauding of centuries past.   It was the workmanship of the facades that had us standing and staring, then reaching out with fingers to trace the curves, lines, and honed images before us.
 

We drove through rolling hills of vineyards, farms, and cork trees. The narrow roads provide wonderful views but hairpin turns like this one without guard rails caused gasps when looking down the sharp drop only inches away.



I have a small potted lemon tree at home with six "almost ripe" lemons ready to be picked and some new fragrant flowers due to our unusually warm autumn. The many Portuguese specimens we saw, however, held a lushness and abundance I can only aspire to.  see my lemon tree here

Bonitas de Portugual !
Here even the trees seem to dance.


a 19th century Portuguese tiara






      


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