SPAIN

Malaga********Valencia********Barcelona 
  

(it was very hard editing down the number of photos)

Hope you enjoy the story of our time in Spain.  Here we're at Guell Park in Barcelona

We flew Swiss Air from Boston to Zurich on an Airbus 330

           Alas, we still had another 2 hours of flight time...

a smaller SwissAir jet flew us to Malaga on the Mediterranean
 in southern Spain.

 Finally....officially on vacation.

   Let the fun begin!

HOLA!

Malaga is capital of the Costa Del Sol area of Spain just east of Gibraltar, and a wonderful composite of its Greek, Roman, and Arab history.   Actor Antonio Banderas was born here as was Pablo Picasso (whose house on the Plaza De Merced is now a museum).  

This region enjoys an incredible 300 days of sunshine each year.  In early Sept when we visited the temperature was in the 80s and very comfortable for sightseeing.

unlike Italy, lots of closet space!

  We stayed in the Tryp Malaga Alameda Hotel on Av de la Aurora.  Our room was modern, spacious by European standards, quiet,  and comfortable. 

La Alcazaba de Malaga, an 11th century restored fortress/palace built by the Moors sits on the hillside overlooking the coast and was one of our first stops the next morning.  Its name comes from the Arabic al-qasbah, meaning citadel.  Beautiful tiled gateways, stone archways, and secluded gardens and patios provided shade from the Mediterranean sun.  From the top we had  a unique view of the city below and onward towards the bustling harbor that sent up cooling breezes.

The Moors influence is seen everywhere

good walking shoes a "must"

Here and in much of the Mediterranean area Carob Trees (we call them Locust) grow freely and produce a long brown pod which can be used to make chocolate substitute.  The seeds/beans (which are not eatable) in these pods are always nearly identical in size, allowing ancient traders to use them as a unit of measurement.  A gemstone on one side of a scale would be said to weigh 5 carobs......
Subsequently this became "carats" and the British, establishing what we know now as The Old English Weights and Measures in the late 1800s used this term and the bean's average weight of 0.197grams as a standard still in place today.

people like to chew on the carob pods for that sweet "chocolate-like" flavor

cruise ships come in frequently

Sunday Mass

We ate at Restaurante El Rescoldo and from a 2nd story window witnessed the evening procession honoring the Virgen de la Victoria one of Malaga's revered patron saints.   September 8th is said to be Mary's birthday and she is honored for helping during various military victories.
Throngs of people watched as about 150 men solemnly carried the flotilla holding her image through the main downtown streets, then stayed late into the night celebrating with family and friends.

Incredible that we had this experience...what timing!

even close to midnight families are still mingling, sharing, laughing

Torremolinos is a tourist magnet located just west of Malaga. Miles of sandy beaches abut this port dotted with yachts and sailboats. They tie up along wide walkways opposite elegant open-air restaurants and shops selling resort-wear, trinkets, and souvenirs. Also known for its nightlife, it's a favorite vacation and retirement spot for Brits.  We enjoyed a long walk along the tiled pedestrian way and paused for cool refreshment...a mango smoothie!

a mix of Venice, Newport, and Monte Carlo ?

lots of Condos here for the European jet set

gorgeous walkway along the Mediterranean coast

Bright colors everywhere, especially by the sea!

a refreshing stop....at 6 euros each ($16 total for the two in American...)

Ronda is known for it's centuries long bullfighting history. The town was still looking very festive after its recent yearly bullfight.

  The "Corrida Goyesca"  takes place here in the

  oldest bullfighting ring in Spain.

  We visited Plaza de toros de Ronda...

got to walk around the ring, stand on its dirt floor

 and tour the inner rooms and informative museum.

The lanterns above are lit up at night....must be beautiful!

  

El toro

a beautiful square in front of the bullring entrance.

It was a little eerie standing  in the center and doing a 360,  looking up into the sun...and the stands,
 imagining the crowd shouting OLE! in unison.

Ronda is mountainous and sits atop a 100 meters deep canyon. The 3 bridges spanning it are a most impressive site.

People hike to the bottom.. walking along ledges and  rough terrain.  

In Hemingway's For Whom the Bell Tolls,

 there is a scene where he describes the 1936 execution of Fascist sympathizers who are thrown off a cliff.  This is felt to be based on actual events that took place here in Ronda.

magnificent in its vastness...a quiet beauty that goes on for miles

Orson Wells visited this village often and his ashes, at his request, were placed on the property of his friend,

 retired bullfighter Antonio Ordonez.

We also visited the Don Bosco House, named for the canonized Italian priest who founded the Salesian order and dedicated his life to teaching poor youth.  Starting in the late 1800s, the original owners (a titled Ronda family) allowed the order to use it as a retreat and retirement home for priests.   Adorned with mosaic elegance and interior patios, the lavish terraced gardens offer panoramic views of the surrounding valley and mountains.

OMG, the tile and workmanship is incredible...and it's everywhere... on the floor, the walls, the ceilings, indoors and out!

The Church of St Maria la Mayor was built upon the defeated Moors mosque's foundation in the 13th century.   The Arabic influence is evident in the design of the upper tower.  Inside, the main altar is predominantly silver with a carved wood canopy. There is a stunning side altar of gold, common to  Andalusian churches of the time due to the expanding wealth of Spain's colonial period.   The elaborate wood design seen in the choir area is mostly original.

A small green park directly opposite offered a nice respite from the midday sun.

More "silver" used here than in other European churches we've visited.

truly golden from top to bottom

a few of these choirseats were damaged during the Spanish Civil War but were restored to look like the originals

We later enjoyed an upscale Andalusian meal near the bullring

at the Restaurant Escudero, located in a 19th century villa that previously functioned as a private home.  The dining area offered spectacular views of the valley and jagged mountains on the horizon.

En route to Valencia, we stopped for lunch in Cartagena at the Sacromonte Restaurante.

...generous offerings of appetizing tapas and local ale...
delicious !

In Valencia we stayed at the Hotel Abba Acteon on Avenida del Puerto, the main street that links the historical center with the harbor and beaches.

  The America's Cup yachting races were held here

 in 2007 and  2010, the first European city to do so.

  Valencia oranges get their name from this city where the trees, laden with fruit, line both sides of the streets.

We got to see how they completely rebuilt their port in the 1990s along the old riverbed Turia.

   Built by Valencia's native architect, Santiago Caltrava,

 the City of Arts and Sciences now offers the biggest aquarium in Europe, a laser IMAX theater,

 the Palau del les Artes, and the Palau de la Musica....

  Amazing architecture and design.

like being in a Star Wars movie

a worker is actually "vacuuming" the reflecting water pool

the roof of the building on the left opens and closes, like an eye

The modernistic design had us feeling as if we'd been transported to some futuristic world.

Walking through the Central Market on Plaza del Mercado was a delightful assault to the senses.  Bright lights, bartering sounds, vibrant colors, and the bustle of shoppers, both tourist and locals filled one of the largest covered markets in Europe.

  All kinds of goods were displayed in rows of stalls making for a very festive atmosphere.

Jamon Iberico de Bellota is widely regarded as the finest ham Spain has to offer, and the world's most expensive at about $150.00 per pound!

Horchata is a Valencian drink made from the chufa, a brown tuber that comes from the root of the nut sedge plant, also known as "earth almond" or "tiger nut".  It is milky white and served ice cold.  I can only describe it as "earthy"

....but, when in Rome.......or should I say Valencia

actually, we enjoyed it, but one glass was enough to satisfy the curiosity

strolling and shopping in Valencia,
 we came upon this spacious and colorfully tiled plaza

I couldn't help but think how slippery this must be in the rain...but then they get very little of it here 

The Cathedral of Valencia was built in the 13th century and its octagonal bell tower El Micalet is the tallest landmark in the city.

The cathedral claims to hold the Holy Grail....

 and reportedly it's the only claim of this kind

 that has yet to be disproved.

Where have all the master stone carvers/masons gone?

The story is that the cup was left where the Last Supper took place, a house belonging to the family of St Mark who later took it to Rome.  It supposedly was then used as the Papal Chalice but was then sent out of Rome in the 3rd century.  It was placed into the hands of a Spanish soldier going to Huesca, Spain in anticipation of persecution in Rome.  During Spain's Muslim occupation, the Grail went into hiding and later re-emerged in various Spanish monasteries and cathedrals.  The Kings of Spain then took over the care of it until finally it was presented to the Valencia Cathedral in the 15th century, where it has remained ever since. 

the Holy Grail, locked up behind glass with lots of security

so much decoration, all with religious symbolic significance

Paella is a delicious Spanish dish we enjoyed
 in both Valencia and Barcelona.
  They proudly display it in a large round pan before serving.

Below is from our evening at the Marina Monchos in Barcelona.

delicious saffron flavor and fragrance

We were amazed by this phenomenal  "sandcastle" spotted while strolling the beach walkway.
  Talented artists create their designs and put out a "hat" for donations.

Barcelona = wonderful memories

The Hesperia Presidente Hotel on Avenida Diagonal was our home while in this vibrant city

right in the middle of the "diagonal" in Barcelona

No one can visit Barcelona without seeing Guell Park

and being mesmerized at every turn.

  It was originally part of a commercially unsuccessful housing site, designed by Count Eusebi Guell who commissioned Antoni Gaudi to do the work in the early 1900s.

   Now a restful area, it is definitely "avant-garde" throughout.  Curves and colorful mosaic designs abound starting at the unique entrance, upon the serpentine benches on the terrace, along the colonnaded pathways, and with the Doric columns and decorated tiled ceiling of the lower level.

so aesthetically impressive

the tile is so cool to the touch, even in the hot sun

yes, I will take a short rest

the locals have nicknames for these two buildings....Hansel and Gretel

quiet orderly elegance

imagine the time and effort it took to create this with small pieces of tile

echos from the past

visitors from all corners of the earth

Another famous Gaudi work is the still unfinished 

Basilica de la Sagrada Familia.

  Started by Francisco de Paula del Villar, Gaudi took over the work and created an outstanding innovatory church over the next 43 years.  Gaudi died in 1926 but his dream continues on through the generosity and support of the visitors and faithful from around the world  They expect it to be finished in 2026 !

they expect it to have 14 spires when finished

notice the massive "fruit" atop these peaks

Ethereal, we loved the interior design

here's a brief video I took showing the interior

We got to see Flamenco in Barcelona.

The soulful guitar tunes and rhythmic hand clapping and foot stomping contributed to a wonderful artistic panorama.

The small 2nd floor Cantina and the sweet Sangria

 added to the ambiance.

the unique sounds of a Spanish guitar 

and the passionate telling of a story through dance

There are still Roman ruins in Barcelona.

  These columns have been preserved and incorporated into the surrounding buildings.

 It took many turns down  narrow alleys to find these.

simply amazing

We took a side trip to the Freixenet cava estate

 in Sant Sadurni d'Anoia, about 40 minutes from Barcelona.

a fun tutorial

A fascinating audiovisual presentation

 was followed by a personally guided tour.

 We heard the history of the Ferrer family, the hardships they overcame to keep their dream alive, and how they still grow and harvest the grapes in a very traditional way.

 We then ventured down to their deepest underground cellars as our guide explained their method of creating this wonderful "sparkling wine".

  It was absolutely the best wine tour experience we have had to date so kudos to the Freixenet company for sharing and giving us such an enjoyable encounter with this "Spanish champagne".

let's start here....

unfortunately, it was too dark for any good quality pictures.... this was not a show place but a real wine cellar, built decades ago, with low curved ceilings that dripped water onto stone floors in rooms holding wine bottled a century ago (albeit, probably vinegar by now but they keep them all the same).
Seeing their modernized area for bottling and packaging made for quite an interesting contrast.
It was all a very memorable experience.

down, down, down......it felt like we should have been carrying fiery torches

let's sample.....SALUD!

 by a festive mural just outside their wine shop

Barcelona is the most visited city in Spain and the 4th visited city in Europe.  We  enjoyed walking both it's wide busy avenues and narrow quiet cobble stoned alleys.

  It offers a rich and diverse cultural history, delectable and varied cuisine, and always helpful and friendly people.

Placa Reial in the Ramblas near the old town,
 a place where people congregate to shop, eat, or just enjoy the weather.

walking the pedestrian walkway of the Ramblas, shopping for souvenirs

everywhere in this city, a mix of ethnicity and ages

Our last night in Spain was bittersweet.  We ate at the Asador de Aranda restaurant on Avenida del Tibidabo.  Originally a private residence, it is ornately decorated with mosaic tiles, carved dark woods, and high chandeliered ceilings.

  Their specialty is Castilian roasted lamb and those that enjoy this dish said it was most superbly prepared.

  We tasted, but feasted mostly on the bread with olive oil, their generously portioned salad and plates of sausage and peppers that accompanied the meal.

 As throughout our trip, the Spanish wines were exquisite.

an unforgettable destination for fine dining

molded tiles, Moorish arches, and beautiful stained glass windows throughout

subdued lighting in the outer patio where they provided cushioned seating

Spanish grandeur

Gracias y adios Espana 

the Royal Spanish wedding tiara