Old Quebec City

(photos by Trish & Jud)
We love visiting Old Quebec City.  I first visited here to do genealogy research and to trace the path of my ancestors who were some of the first Europeans to settle this continent.
  It was such a positive experience, we made a return visit and look forward to going again soon. I took this pic from the upper terrace of the famous Chateau Frontenac looking north over the St Laurence River and Laurentian Mts.  We stayed in one of their  turret rooms (no corners!) This is a grand hotel that offers elegance and sophistication but still makes each visitor feel welcome and special.  It dominates the skyline and has hosted royalty, presidents, and celebrities over past centuries.  There are so many other wonderful places to stay here... small hotels or B&B's.  A personal favorite is Hotel Le Clos St-Louis for couples wanting a smaller, intimate setting.

This part of Old Quebec, closer to the river, has also been rebuilt while keeping the original old world feel and remains a busy port.   You MUST make time for Marché du Vieux-Port.   It has to be the best Farmer's Market ever...
admittedly it's a hike from upper Quebec but well worth it.  A great place to mingle with the locals, try their foods, wines, fruits, berries, desserts,etc.   It was suggested to us by a local guide as a way to experience more of the city than the usual tourist spots.  We strolled down the winding steep road and entered this expansive bustling venue by the river.  We sampled and nibbled our way through the aisles of stalls marveling at the offerings.  There were winemakers, farmers, orchard owners, bee-keepers, cheese makers, and talented local artisans.  It was a festive, boisterous atmosphere with families doing their "marketing", many buying a bushel of fruit,  baskets of berries, and local produce such as the 50# bags of potatoes some hoisted over their shoulder.  We decided to have our dessert first by sampling gelato made with local organic fruit.  We then purchased freshly baked bread, cheese, wine, honey, and fruit.  (We would have bought more but were on foot and it's a long mile back, all uphill.)  Back in our spacious room overlooking the river we enjoyed an exquisite continental feast before venturing back out for an evening walk thru upper town. 

City Hall was artfully decorated for the fall season.  The square in front is a wonderful area to leisurely stroll and listen to the talented street musicians.  Opposite, you'll find the "breakneck stairs" leading down to Lower Town.  First built in 1635, and rebuilt many times since, this staircase of 59 steps has a very steep incline.  (try the funicular as an alternative for the trek back up).

Lower Quebec's original stone buildings now house shops, cafes, art galleries, and museums. The cobblestone pedestrian walkways play host to musicians and artisans selling their wares. Place-Royal is the name of the main square where Samuel Champlain first settled, founding the first French settlement in North America in 1608.

 

     

Most buildings are refurbished but have managed to keep that old world charm.  Walking through these cobblestone alleys we thought, "it's more European than parts of Europe".

 

Exquisite trompe de l'oeil that really does "deceive the eye". To the left is Notre-Dame-des-Victoires (on Place-Royal), a small Catholic Church that dates back to 1687, although it has required much rebuilding over the centuries.  We walked in one afternoon when it was practically deserted and sat in the front pew.  A gentleman came over and quietly shared the colorful stories about this landmark and the historical figures who built, worshiped within, and defended it through the settlement's stormy history. I could have listened for hours, such were his tales.

Who's real and who's artwork?

The only walled city in North America north of Mexico, Old Quebec City is definitely best experienced on foot.  We passed through this gate walking toward the Plains of Abraham and Battlefields Park (French and Indian War, 1759).  There's an impressive collection of artifacts, weapons, and uniforms from the era at the Citadel's museum and guided tours of the various buildings, including the prison and guards house. We enjoyed the scenic walk back through the park along the wall overlooking old Quebec.

 If you travel to the area, try also to visit lle d'Orleans, 3 miles east of Quebec in the St Laurence River. The isle is made up of six small villages and has remained agricultural.  The proprietors welcome visitors to their farms, vineyards, and orchards. 

  You'll find an abundance of roadside stands, artisan fairs, wine tastings, historical sites, wonderful food at small restaurants,and the scenery in all directions is spectacular.  It is said that most of us who trace our French-Canadian ancestry find it leads us back to the early inhabitants of this island.

We spent most of our day on the isle in Sainte-Famille, founded in 1661.  This church was built in 1743 and its 3 working steeples make it quite unique.  Next door is a genealogy center dedicated to the original settlers.  My ancestor, Rene Ouellet, (b. abt 1644 in Paris, France) is listed as receiving one of the first land grants.
Another direct ancestor,  Zacharie Cloutier was born on  February 2, 1589, in St. Jean, Perche, France.  He initially came to "New France" in 1619 with his father Denis to assist Samuel Champlain in preparing the settlement.  He was hired as a carpenter who then returned to France when his work was completed.  Several years later he decided to emigrate with his wife and children.

an antique french wedding tiara