photos by Jud & Trish 10/2011
You walk through and it's as if you're transformed, magically enveloped into a master's
painting. The tile, the stonework, the colorful roofs, homes with
flowers and greenery, always places to stop, rest, sit....a center plaza
to gather and share good food, talk, and laughter all add to the old world charm.
The food (codfish, pork, beef, chicken, duck, and rabbit were available on most menus) was always appetizing with generous portions. The wines were exquisite and inexpensive.
We were fortunate to have our own personal guide around the city for one day as I have an expat cousin who now makes his home in this beautiful capital city.
Looking
down over Lisbon and beyond to the Tagus River. Much
of the city was destroyed during the earthquake and subsequent tsunami
of 1755 (estimated today to be an 8.5-9.0). Not only did 85% of the
city's population lose their lives but the river's path changed so that
some buildings such as the Tower of Belem (seen below) now sits in its
waters. This tower is where Portugal's king would meet Magellan and
other explorers that visited Lisbon.
Pasteis de Belém (visit their site)is a definite must if
you're visiting Lisbon! The 1837 original factory/cafe is still in
Belem. The Antiga Confeitaria de Belem can be found next to Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, in Rua de Belem nº 84-88. A
line forms each day as locals and tourists wait
patiently for their turn to be served one of these warm-from-the-oven
delicious egg-custard tarts with an incredibly flaky crust and
carmelized top. The line does move quickly as this is all they serve,
you only have to decide whether to have wine or espresso with them. The
original recipe is still kept secret and none that we've tried
stateside (or even at other establishments in Lisbon) have come close
to tasting as wonderful.
This
capital city has many wonderfully tiled, shaded walkways with ample benches
for rest and people-watching. Beware, though, they are potentially disastrous with
heels, especially in the dark or
rain. It helps to have the arm of a strong man to hold onto.
We
came upon this scene while walking in the Alfama district of the
city, listening to
the echos of soulful fado music, and enjoying the quaint, almost
medieval ambiance. We walked these maze-like alleys where every turn was
a true
"photo-op". This was a Thursday night close to midnight and still
people are gathering.
Every restaurant and cafe offers alfresco dining. Some have as many as 20 tables while others have but one or two. Always there is someone to greet you, and no one to rush you out. Take an hour, enjoy an espresso and conversation with friends, or sip quietly alone with a good book.
Opposite
our hotel.... with splashes of color in every direction. Obvious
pride and care show in the clean streets and lack of litter. The
shopping is exquisite, with all the European designers represented along
the main Avenida da Liberdade (Avenue of Liberty).
Sintra
is one of Portugal's oldest and most celebrated cities. Here, you'll
find castles, museums, palaces and buildings that date to the 11th
century. With it's winding stone alleys set into the hills most of the
center remains as it was centuries ago. This is the view from a
distant royalty's "summer" palace. I don't know who counted,
but there are reportedly a total of 300 stairs within.
The massive kitchen/scullery area was most interesting, with the high walls sloping up and in to an open "chimney-like" ceiling designed to draw up the smoke from the required large cooking fires.
A night view from the highest point of Lisboa, near the Castle of Sao Jorge, a Moorish castle built near the center of Lisbon. Here, we were among a throng of locals at an outdoor cafe.
The Temple at Evora, also called the Temple of Diana (Roman) dates back to the 1st-3rd Century. It probably was a place of buying and selling but the amazing thing is....it's still standing.
We had fun exploring the walled city of Obidos with its 13th century castle at the top of the hill. (This small village was once a wedding present from a king to his new bride.) The quietness transports you back in time. All you hear are your footsteps and nature as thoughts drift to what life was like in a distant century.
I still marvel that medieval women could walk and climb with heavy skirts and thin soled shoes through these rocky lanes and carved out stairs. We visited on a windy day and the higher we got the more gusty and forceful the winds. Jud braved the steep stone stairs to the higher walls (no railings on either side) while I opted to turn back a third of the way up. They use the area for several annual events (like the chocolate festival that was upcoming).
Tile is everywhere in Portugal and done with flair and style. This
perfectly level pedestrian walkway by shops and cafes has the illusion
of waves. It can make you dizzy if you continue to look down as you
walk! We leisurely (no drive-thru here) enjoyed espresso and a beer
overlooking a Newport-like ocean view from a cafe at the top. (At
beautiful renown Cascais on the "other" side of the Atlantic.)
Majestic
waves crashed in on miles of beaches and the sky to the west was
the bluest ever. We enjoyed some incredible meals, courtesy of the
local fishermen and their wives, especially in Nazare where tradition
includes the wearing of seven skirts by those drying the fish in baskets
at the edge of the ocean.
Do you think this is a one way street? Notice the ever present small
tiles on the walkways. (all hand placed and hammered into sand, we
actually saw a crew of men repairing a section in Lisboa) Also,
note the chairs outside on the left sidewalk. Morning coffee here
must be very interesting. This was taken as we "briefly" lost our way
while walking one afternoon.
We visited the family-owned winery of José Maria da Fonseca in the town of Arrabida early
one morning and
witnessed the villagers starting their day. The vineyard was quiet
except for the sound of chirping birds looking to sample the ripening
grapes. An english speaking family member took us on an amazing tour of
their 150 year old wine cellars (some of their oldest casks are kept in a
dungeon-like area behind a locked iron gate). We then sampled their
renown muscatel and port which are respected and renown throughout the
global wine community. No wonder they historically offer a great
product...it was a warm, sun drenched day, even in October. Yes, the
sky
really was this blue!
Intricate
stone carvings added to the architectural marvels of the Cathedrals,
Monasteries, and Universities we visited. The masonry facades in Europe
continue to amaze me. Actually, most of the interiors were rather
plain although expansive...mostly due to the marauding of centuries
past. It was the workmanship of the facades that had us standing and
staring, then reaching out with fingers to trace the curves, lines, and
honed images before us.
We drove through rolling hills of vineyards, farms, and cork trees.
The narrow roads provide wonderful views but hairpin turns like this one
without guard rails caused gasps when looking down the sharp drop only inches away.
I
have a small potted lemon tree at home with six "almost ripe" lemons
ready to be picked and some
new fragrant flowers due to our unusually warm autumn. The many
Portuguese specimens we saw, however, held a lushness and abundance I
can only aspire to. see my lemon tree here
A wonderful destination...
Lisbon and it's surrounding countryside offer warm hospitality, a rich cultural history, lively entertainment, delectable food, and full-bodied wines. Oh, and the weather while we were there in October of 2011 was 75-80 with not one drop of rain to be seen!
Lisbon and it's surrounding countryside offer warm hospitality, a rich cultural history, lively entertainment, delectable food, and full-bodied wines. Oh, and the weather while we were there in October of 2011 was 75-80 with not one drop of rain to be seen!
The food (codfish, pork, beef, chicken, duck, and rabbit were available on most menus) was always appetizing with generous portions. The wines were exquisite and inexpensive.
We were fortunate to have our own personal guide around the city for one day as I have an expat cousin who now makes his home in this beautiful capital city.
Looking
down over Lisbon and beyond to the Tagus River. Much
of the city was destroyed during the earthquake and subsequent tsunami
of 1755 (estimated today to be an 8.5-9.0). Not only did 85% of the
city's population lose their lives but the river's path changed so that
some buildings such as the Tower of Belem (seen below) now sits in its
waters. This tower is where Portugal's king would meet Magellan and
other explorers that visited Lisbon.
Pasteis de Belém (visit their site)is a definite must if
you're visiting Lisbon! The 1837 original factory/cafe is still in
Belem. The Antiga Confeitaria de Belem can be found next to Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, in Rua de Belem nº 84-88. A
line forms each day as locals and tourists wait
patiently for their turn to be served one of these warm-from-the-oven
delicious egg-custard tarts with an incredibly flaky crust and
carmelized top. The line does move quickly as this is all they serve,
you only have to decide whether to have wine or espresso with them. The
original recipe is still kept secret and none that we've tried
stateside (or even at other establishments in Lisbon) have come close
to tasting as wonderful. 
This
capital city has many wonderfully tiled, shaded walkways with ample benches
for rest and people-watching. Beware, though, they are potentially disastrous with
heels, especially in the dark or
rain. It helps to have the arm of a strong man to hold onto.
We
came upon this scene while walking in the Alfama district of the
city, listening to
the echos of soulful fado music, and enjoying the quaint, almost
medieval ambiance. We walked these maze-like alleys where every turn was
a true
"photo-op". This was a Thursday night close to midnight and still
people are gathering. 
Every restaurant and cafe offers alfresco dining. Some have as many as 20 tables while others have but one or two. Always there is someone to greet you, and no one to rush you out. Take an hour, enjoy an espresso and conversation with friends, or sip quietly alone with a good book.
Opposite
our hotel.... with splashes of color in every direction. Obvious
pride and care show in the clean streets and lack of litter. The
shopping is exquisite, with all the European designers represented along
the main Avenida da Liberdade (Avenue of Liberty).
Sintra
is one of Portugal's oldest and most celebrated cities. Here, you'll
find castles, museums, palaces and buildings that date to the 11th
century. With it's winding stone alleys set into the hills most of the
center remains as it was centuries ago. This is the view from a
distant royalty's "summer" palace. I don't know who counted,
but there are reportedly a total of 300 stairs within.
The massive kitchen/scullery area was most interesting, with the high walls sloping up and in to an open "chimney-like" ceiling designed to draw up the smoke from the required large cooking fires.
A night view from the highest point of Lisboa, near the Castle of Sao Jorge, a Moorish castle built near the center of Lisbon. Here, we were among a throng of locals at an outdoor cafe.
The Temple at Evora, also called the Temple of Diana (Roman) dates back to the 1st-3rd Century. It probably was a place of buying and selling but the amazing thing is....it's still standing.
We had fun exploring the walled city of Obidos with its 13th century castle at the top of the hill. (This small village was once a wedding present from a king to his new bride.) The quietness transports you back in time. All you hear are your footsteps and nature as thoughts drift to what life was like in a distant century.
I still marvel that medieval women could walk and climb with heavy skirts and thin soled shoes through these rocky lanes and carved out stairs. We visited on a windy day and the higher we got the more gusty and forceful the winds. Jud braved the steep stone stairs to the higher walls (no railings on either side) while I opted to turn back a third of the way up. They use the area for several annual events (like the chocolate festival that was upcoming).
Tile is everywhere in Portugal and done with flair and style. This
perfectly level pedestrian walkway by shops and cafes has the illusion
of waves. It can make you dizzy if you continue to look down as you
walk! We leisurely (no drive-thru here) enjoyed espresso and a beer
overlooking a Newport-like ocean view from a cafe at the top. (At
beautiful renown Cascais on the "other" side of the Atlantic.) 
Majestic
waves crashed in on miles of beaches and the sky to the west was
the bluest ever. We enjoyed some incredible meals, courtesy of the
local fishermen and their wives, especially in Nazare where tradition
includes the wearing of seven skirts by those drying the fish in baskets
at the edge of the ocean.
Do you think this is a one way street? Notice the ever present small
tiles on the walkways. (all hand placed and hammered into sand, we
actually saw a crew of men repairing a section in Lisboa) Also,
note the chairs outside on the left sidewalk. Morning coffee here
must be very interesting. This was taken as we "briefly" lost our way
while walking one afternoon. 
We visited the family-owned winery of José Maria da Fonseca in the town of Arrabida early
one morning and
witnessed the villagers starting their day. The vineyard was quiet
except for the sound of chirping birds looking to sample the ripening
grapes. An english speaking family member took us on an amazing tour of
their 150 year old wine cellars (some of their oldest casks are kept in a
dungeon-like area behind a locked iron gate). We then sampled their
renown muscatel and port which are respected and renown throughout the
global wine community. No wonder they historically offer a great
product...it was a warm, sun drenched day, even in October. Yes, the
sky
really was this blue!
Intricate
stone carvings added to the architectural marvels of the Cathedrals,
Monasteries, and Universities we visited. The masonry facades in Europe
continue to amaze me. Actually, most of the interiors were rather
plain although expansive...mostly due to the marauding of centuries
past. It was the workmanship of the facades that had us standing and
staring, then reaching out with fingers to trace the curves, lines, and
honed images before us.
We drove through rolling hills of vineyards, farms, and cork trees.
The narrow roads provide wonderful views but hairpin turns like this one
without guard rails caused gasps when looking down the sharp drop only inches away.
I
have a small potted lemon tree at home with six "almost ripe" lemons
ready to be picked and some
new fragrant flowers due to our unusually warm autumn. The many
Portuguese specimens we saw, however, held a lushness and abundance I
can only aspire to. see my lemon tree here
Bonitas de Portugual !
Here even the trees seem to dance.
 |
| a 19th century Portuguese tiara |
No comments:
Post a Comment